48 hours in Bogotá

Our final stop in our Colombian adventure was Bogotá, the capitol which could also be known as hipsterville, as the city is lined with amazing street art, too-cool-for-school kids and in general pretty hip people. We were told ahead that we shouldn’t spend too much time here, so we decided to do Bogotá in 2 hectic days.

A storm is coming

We skipped the 10-hour busride from Salento to Bogotá, buying a supercheap flight (ca $50) from nearby Armenia (about 1 hour from Salento). A short taxi-ride took us from the Bogotá airport to Candelaria, an older neighborhood in Bogotá and the main tourist area. We had booked at Hostal Sue Candelaria, and turns out our booking led us to a really nice, modern apartment nearby with a room more similar to an expensive hotel than the inexpensive hostal we thought we booked – a good start!

The day got even better as we went to dinner at T-bone Candelaria Steak House – where we got delicious beef with Chilean red wine. Such a treat, albeit expensive. In general the Candelaria area has a lot of tasty restaurants and bars, so we knew we had come to the right place!

The next day we booked a bike tour with Mike at Bogota Bike Tours, after hearing about it from Isabellwhom we met in Cuba. We were just three tourists on the tour, which was really nice. Mike is an American who has lived in Colombia for 8 years, he had a lot of knowledge about Bogotá and we enjoyed riding around looking at the town, from the touristy Plaza de Bolivar to the gritty red-light district. One of the things that really stood out was all the great graffiti art all over town. Tuva found a few pieces that she wished were available as prints – they would look really good as art at home. Other highlights were visiting the coffee factory (which we could smell a long way) and trying various exotic fruits at the market. We ended the day at Bogota Beer Company, which had some really nice home-brew.

Plaza Bolivar

Bogota street art 2

Bogota bikers

Our other day we started with a trip on the funicular from the city (2962 m) to Monserrate (3152 m). The hill of Monserrate gives a great view of the city spreading out, at least in the morning before the heavy clouds cover the top. There were a lot of school kids on a field trip up there who thought we were really cool/weird and wanted to take pictures with us or talk to us. It was almost like we were celebreties :)

Monserrate

We also visited the Museo de Oro, the gold museum, which really has A LOT of gold on display. Worth seeing, but we didn’t spend too much time here. Same with the Botero museum and the Coin museum. The two latter are actually free so it was an easy decision to just pop in and look around. The Coin museum had a short English text on most of the displays, which was a nice surprise.

Death mask

Little gold man

We finished our two days in Bogotá at a cooking class with a sweet lady, who was also the landlady of Mike from the bike tours. We learned how to make the traditional Aijaco soup (potato soup) and Lulo juice with A LOT of sugar. It also gave us a view of the life of a normal Bogotian (just made that up) and how the whole family lives under the same roof.

All in all we felt we got a really good look at the city in the two days through the bike tour, trip to Monserrate and various museums. We even got a little peek into ordinary Bogotá life with our cooking class. Although worth a visit, we wouldn’t recommend spending too much time in Bogotá as there are so many other places to see and experience in Colombia.

Tuva and our chef

The Papaya Rule

Coming to Bogotá (and Colombia in general) as very touristy looking tourists (ref. blond hair, travel clothes, big-ass camera) we were a bit wary of the harsh rumor the city has with regards to theft. We even got warned on the T-Bone restaurant by the waiter to keep our valuables close and out of sight. This is partly because of the “Papaya rule” that exist in Colombia (and we’ve also heard Ecuador and Peru), which has two parts:

  1. Don’t give papaya (No dar papaya)
  2. If papaya is served, you eat it

Papaya basically means any valuable that is easy to steal, so in other words: don’t walk around with valuables that are easy to steal, because if it gets stolen, it’s your own fault. It must be said that we didn’t feel that Bogotá was as bad as its rumor and we luckily didn’t have any bad experiences.

Demonstration police

The bull fighting arena 1

Narrow streets

Rooftops

Working out like a boss

Botero MuseumMore photos from Bogotá and the rest of our travels in Colombia can be found here.

Taking in Colombia’s coffee region

After the bustling city of Medellín we figured we’d go to the more relaxed Zona Cafetera, Colombia’s coffee region, known for pristine nature, lush valleys and, well, coffee. Zona Cafetera is a zone in the Colombian Andes where nearly half of Colombia’s coffee is harvested in just over 1% of the country’s total area.

Cappuccino

Valleys

Our main destination was Salento, but on the way south we stopped by Santa Rosa de Cabal to visit the San Vicente thermal baths. We spent a day relaxing in the (very) hot pools, enjoying the Turkish baths, peeling and mud treatments, high up in the valley. The water is heated by underground volcanoes and was at times almost scolding hot. We had a nice day at the pools and the town itself was also nice, with some good restaurants and cool bars/nightclubs.

Muddy face

Superman!

Next stop was Salento, a lovely little town in between coffee fincas and an awe-inspiring landscape. The town was quite charming with colorful houses, the town plaza on a hill, a little “shopping street” and several local restaurants. Tuva got her American-food fix at a great little cafe called Brunch, which served great breakfast and lunch, and even (somewhat creepy) Mickey-Mouse shaped pancakes. We also enjoyed the local trucha (trout), the comida tipica for the region, at Camino Real, a restaurant in the tourist street.

Above Salento

The church in Salento

One of the main goals for our visit was to hike in Valle de Cocora (waxpalm valley), where we walked in the beautiful landscape between 60 meter high wax palms for about 5 hours. 2 of those hours were in pouring rain. Luckily we borrowed rain boots from the hostel, so the only part that wasn’t wet in the end was our big toes. The 20-minute jeepride back to Salento, where we had to stand on the back of the jeep, didn’t help either, and made sure we got soaked all the way to the skin..!

Apart from the rain the trip was really nice. We hiked to a finca high up in the valley, where they had hot chocolate (or a cold soda) and a lot of humming birds. We were lucky enough to have two little dogs leading us all the way up. After the finca we hiked into the cloud forest, which had an almost magical (trolsk) feel, before the clouds subsided and revealed the mighty palms of the valley. We will probably never see the same landscape anywhere else.

Tuva in Valle de Cocora

Happy couple in the valley

The other goal of our visit was to visit a coffee farm. We went to Finca Don Elias, where we got to see and learn about the coffee berries, how to get the beans out of them, dry the beans, roast them and finally grind them to aromatic coffee. The
guide, Jose, was really nice and we learned a lot about coffee and how it’s produced.

Coffee berries

Our coffee guide

Roasted coffee

Silhouette

Cloud forest 2

Palm hills

Wax palms

More photos from the coffee region and the rest of our travels in Colombia can be found here.

The big rock in Guatapé

When we were in Medellín, we took a quick daytrip to the nearby (about 1 hour busride) town of Guatapé. Guatapé is known for the big rock El Peñol (also known as El Peñon de Guatapé or La Piedra), lakeside summer houses for the wealthy, and the bombed out summer house of Pablo Escobar, the Medellín druglord.

Ready for the big rock

We started by climbing El Peñol, which is about 720 steps along the side of the rock. At the top there was a spectacular view of the area, which really is beautiful and worth the admission fee of 10,000 COP.

The Ascent

Islands

We also took a guided boat-trip on the lake, which we managed to haggle down from 80,000 to 60,000 COP (it was pretty easy and we still probably paid to much). The lake is actually artificial, and they submerged a whole town when it was created, leaving only the cross on the church visible above water.

On the boat-trip we got to see a lot of beautiful vacation houses, owned by various drug traffickers, mafia and government officials, and also the disco and bombed vacation house of Pablo Escobar. We also got to listen to a lot of 80’s music that we suspect was salvaged from Pablo’s old disco.

Sunken town

Pablo's bombed house

Pablo's disco

The town of Guatapé is itself very beautiful with its brightly colored buildings all over, and we could have stayed the night if we have had more time.

Chiling in Guatapé

Main plaza

Cab

El Peñon BW

More photos from Guatapé and the rest of our travels in Colombia can be found here.

Medellín

After a very warm stay in Mompox, we were really looking forward to the “city of eternal spring”, Medellín, in the Antioquia region of Colombia. A city of about 2 million inhabitants it is very different from the other places we’ve visited in Colombia.

Medellin

Medellín has a less than favorable reputation, with a history of drugs, terror and violence, hosting the Medellin Cartel and Pablo Escobar in the 80’s and 90’s. In 1990 it was actually more dangerous to be in Medellín than in Beirut, Lebanon (where there was a civil war!), and it has only been safe for tourists (and locals) for about 10 years.

Now, thanks to a math teacher (who was elected mayor), Medellín is a modern city with an efficient metrosystem, beautiful parks and many museums, and we really enjoyed our 5 days there. We stayed in a newer area of town called El Poblado (or: Zona Rosa, Gringolandia) which is where most hostels, nightclubs, etc. are at. It’s also the safest area of town, so a good place to stay.

Plaza Botero

Blown bird

Some of our highlights here were:

  • Parque Explora: a technical museum for children of all ages, where we learned about the mind, the body, Darwin, fishes, and laws of physics. Maybe we’re just nerds, but we had a lot of fun (we spent more than 6 hours there)!
  • Museo de Antioquia, which features a lot of paintings and sculptures from the great son of Medellin, Fernando Botero (those voluminous people, animals and other things), and also some other art collections.
  • Watching a soccer game: the two local teams played a match in Copa Colombia, so a lot of noise, and crazy balancing on the top of the stadium
  • A walking tour in the center of town with Pablo of Free Walking Tours Medellín (the tour was free, but most tipped around $20, because it was so good)
  • Riding the MetroCable where we got some great views of different parts of the city, the slums of Medellin and the surrounding mountains. It is connected with the rest of the metro and can be used on the same ticket (only costs $1 for a trip). The cable also takes you to the impressive library and Parque Arvi, which is also worth visiting if you have the time.

Darwin and me

Yellow frog

Museo De Antioquia

Pablo of Medellin free walking tours

Up

Football fans

Cable cars

More photos from Medellin and the rest of our travels in Colombia can be found here.

Off the beaten track in Mompóx

On our way from Cartagena we decided to do a little (ok, long) detour to the lovely town of Santa Cruz de Mompós. Also known as Mompox, it has a smalltown feel (although there are 60 000 inhabitants), a beautiful cemetery and very, very hot climate.

Mompox lies alongside Rio Magdalena and to get to Mompox we first did a 6-hour bustrip from Cartagena to Magangue, then a break before the bus drove onto a fleet that was pushed upriver to La Bodega, and from there another hour drive to Mompox.

Rio Magdalena

The feel of Mompox

The thing about Mompox is that it feels like a town that doesn’t depend on tourists, thus you don’t get hassled by people wanting to sell you stuff, like so many other places we’ve visited. We met a lot of people that genuinely just wanted to talk to us and some even practiced their English on us (even the dogs seemed friendly here!).

Although it is in the Lonely Planet as one of the top 10 i Colombia, it felt a bit off the beaten track (dare we say “hidden gem”?), probably because it takes some effort to get there and it is really hot in the day. We stayed at Casa Amarilla (the yellow house), which is a lovely place – although the staff was a bit hard to find at times.

We spent our 24 hours there walking around looking at the town, and we got to see a procession from the church next to our hostel, in preparation of Semana Santa in a couple of weeks. They had a float with the Christ carrying his cross, and stopped at different paintings, that were placed on tables lining the streets, to recall a story (is our interpretation). The whole procession must have taken hours, we only watched one block of it.

Tuva making new friends

Night procession

The cemetery in Mompox is really lovely, especially at dusk. We are not usually cemetery-lovers (nor, ruin lovers or museum lovers), but it just felt magical. There was also an insane amount of cats at the cemetery, very cute (and also not so cute) kittens everywhere! We even went back the next morning to see it at dawn and walk around the rest of the town when it still wasn’t too hot.

The cemetery

Burning lights

As for food we found a couple small restaurants by the riverfront, and sat down at one that, interestingly, served turtle stew (we chose the less adventurous chicken and pork). It was very rustic, but served very good coconut rice and a half liter (in a measuring cup) of fresh juice. At night we had a very good, and a bit expensive, pizza at restaurant El Fuerte, which is run by an Italian that cooks his pizzas in a stone oven he has made himself, alongside all his home-made furniture. He didn’t have any menu, he just asked us what we didn’t like and proceeded to cook a “pizza symphony” for us. Very yummy indeed! We also had some great coffee at “Star Coffe” by the Iglesia Santo Domingo.

Pizza El Furte

Some other interesting things we noticed in and around Mompox was the complete lack of traffic safety (we’re talking 5 people on one MC and no-one is wearing helmets) and their less than environmentally friendly way of throwing away garbage. It is normal to just throw whatever out the window of the car that you don’t need/want, resulting in the highways and surrounding nature looking like a big trash-pile. These things aren’t special for Mompox, but it seems that they are more normal on the countryside than in the big cities.

Colombian road safety 1

Our short stop in Mompox was absolutely worth it, we recommend it to anyone who wants to see something different and experience Colombia outside the typical tourist track!

Iglesia San Francisco

Iglesia Santa Barbara

Donkey

Rio Magdalena at dawn

More photos from Mompox and our travels in Colombia can be found here.

Strolling the streets of Cartagena

After our wet experience in Tayrona we were done with beach and were looking forward to a bigger city with some culture and history, and our next stop on our Colombian adventure, Cartagena, fit the bill perfectly!

Cartagena is on the Caribbean coast of Colombia, with an old, walled city within and lots of colonial buildings. There are two main tourist areas in Cartagena: the old town and Bocagrande, a more upscale part with lots of American stores and fast food restaurants. We chose to live just outside old town and were very happy with that decision (Hotel La Magdalena – cheap and nice!).

The clocktower

Couples enjoying the sunset

We spent most of our time walking the streets, looking at the old buildings and churches, drinking coffee and soaking up the city’s atmosphere, which was very nice. One day we walked straight into the film set of a new Colombian TV-soap, unfortunately they didn’t need any Norwegian statists at the time..

We visited the museum Palacio de la Inquisicion (Cartagena’s history and the Spanish Inquisition) and the big castle Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas, both good experiences. We also had some good eats, especially a Peru Fusion restaurant and the ice creams from La Paletteria (we also tried Gelateria Paradisio, but were not impressed..).

Paletteria 2

Visitor

Watchtower

We also considered going for a trip to the surrounding islands and to a man-made mud volcano, but opted out because of our time constraints and that they seemed like major tourist traps.

All in all we had some really nice days here, and Cartagena is absolutely a must-visit on a trip to Colombia, both for its history and culture, but also for it’s nearby islands and beaches (for those who want a taste of the Caribbean).

The postcard shot

Dat ass

Happy dog

Old and new lines

Amarillo

Sloping wall

Tourist-Tuva 1

More photos from Cartagena and our travels in Colombia can be found here.

Halfway through – 7 travel insights so far

Today we are halfway through our Latin American adventure, 109 days down and still 109 days to go (luckily)! We’ve had a blast so far and are looking forward to the second half. This post contains some of the things we’ve learned so far traveling.

Local bus

Be open to new people and experiences! We’ve met so many interesting people on the way, both fellow travelers and locals, and this has really made our travel that much more fun. We’ve learned to be open to the people we meet and the new experiences that sometimes result from the encounters. This has lead to our itinerary changing every other day and developing on the way, leading us to some places we hadn’t heard about just a couple weeks or days before. (NB: in some places, like bigger cities, you should still be a bit careful with who you talk to on the streets as there are a lot of hustlers out there trying to fool you..)

Don’t plan too far ahead! Ref. previous point, you will want to change it due to new information, loving where you are, bad/good weather, or new friends. We try to look one week ahead, but don’t book a hostel until a day or two before we need it, just so we’re sure that’s where we want to go. The downside is that sometimes we don’t get our first choice and/or have to pay a little more..

Learning a little Spanish is both very useful and a lot of fun! To be able to buy tickets, get a taxi, ask directions, order (the right) food at restaurants, book a room and have a simple conversation with a local will really enhance your travel. We spent 8 days in the beginning at language schools (in addition to duolingo.com and some audio-courses before we left), and it was so worth it. There are surprisingly few who speak English, even in the hostels.

Buses in Central and South America are excessively cold – so put on your pants and sweater/fleece and bring a blanket! It seems having A/C is such a luxury here that they use it as much as possible.

Time in Latin America is relative – if it says a bus takes 4 hours, it most likely will take 5 hours or more. Therefore we never plan bus rides or planes back-to-back. It’s kind of like money in the USA – you need to add 25% to the quota to find out how much you’re really going to spend.

You can never be too sure that what you think you’re paying for is what you actually get – check every detail and don’t assume anything. Travel agents will sell you the sunshine story and don’t tell you the things that can make you reconsider, so ask about everything that is important for you. For instance: a “direct bus” isn’t necessarily the same bus all the way.

5 things we’re really glad we brought:

  • Fleece jackets: they can be used whenever it’s a little cold (ref. the cold buses) and weigh almost nothing compared to how much heat they give.
  • Waterproof bag (the thick kind): it has saved our electronics many a wet boat trip and doubles as a portable laundromat together with some travel soap and a small clothes line.
  • Sandals: we both bought some just before we left (Mathias didn’t think he needed them at first) but we’ve used them almost 80% of the time on travel (at least Mathias), as closed shoes gets too hot/cramped and flip-flops are not always the best to walk a long time in.
  • Packing cubes and mesh pockets: both bigger cubes and smaller pockets that you can close and still easily see what’s in have really made our packing much faster and more efficient. It makes it easy to find the stuff you need and put it back in the right place. A time saver when we pack our bags almost every second day to move on.
  • Kindle and iPad: perfect for long buses/flights/waits, when you have nothing to do but sit. Tuva has so far read more than 25 books, which would amount to a really heavy bag if she opted for the physical kind instead of a Kindle. Also, the iPad doubles as photo editor and blog-reader.

Tuva and her beloved Kindle

That’s it so far. Today we came to Santa Rosa de Cabal in the coffee region in Colombia, after 5 hours on a roller coaster of a bus through beautiful scenery. We’ll spend tomorrow soaking in the thermal pools nearby and getting some nice, relaxing spa treatments :)