What to do in Buenos Aires

Apart from eating tender beef and drinking smooth Malbec there is a lot of stuff to do in Buenos Aires. This post will briefly touch on what we did during our stay and what we recommend for others.

First of all it’s nice to stay near the attractions and luckily BA has a pretty good subway-system, so you’re never too far from anything. With that in mind it’s smart to stay near one of the stations. We rented an apartment in Palermo, which is the hip place to live in BA, with lots of restaurants, night clubs and designer shops. We really liked the neighborhood and didn’t have to walk too far to get most places, but we wished we had stayed closer to Plaza Italia, which is the transport hub in Palermo (we had to walk 20 minutes or take a 10 minute bus, which adds up if you do it twice everyday).

As for what’s happening in Buenos Aires we got a tip about a magazine you can buy on the streets which is called “Time Out Buenos Aires”, is written in English and contains all the information a tourist (or expat) needs. There we got the tips of our closed door restaurant experience and several things to see and do.


Government building

25. Mayo celebrations 2


A lot of the time we spent strolling around in the neighborhoods looking at stuff and taking photos, we visited the following neighborhoods:

  • Palermo is a big neighborhood in the north and as earlier mentioned the home of the hipsters, designer shops, malls, nice parks and a whole lot of restaurants and bars
  • Villa Crespo is south of Palermo and has much of the same vibe, only a bit more gritty
  • Recoleta and Retiro is east of Palermo and has some of the most expensive houses (read: palaces) and designer shops in BA, as well as the famous Recoleta Cemetery with Evita’s grave (and a whole lot of rich people)
  • Microcentro is downtown BA and is where you’ll find a lot of sights such as Avenide de Mayo, Plaza de Mayo, the Obelisk, Teatro Colon and Casa Rosada among other things, also Calle Florida for shopping (but be weary of thugs, or so we hear)
  • San Telmo is south of Microcentro and has a nice sunday market with tango dancing at night, some of the better restaurants (La Brigada and El Desnivel) and pretty streets with cobbeled stones to stroll
  • Puerto Madero is east of San Telmo and is where the new expensive apartments are built (read: skyscrapers). There are some nice parks, and a lot of out-door parillas on the streets
  • La Boca in the south is the home of Boca Juniors football club (Maradona’s club), the colurful houses in Caminito, Maradona imitators and cheesy tango couples in the streets. It is basically a big tourist trap worth only a quick visit (if you’re not going to a football match), it is also a bit dodgy at night (or so we heard).

The Obelisk

Mate kit

Statue in Puerto Madero

La Boca 2


There are a lot of tours offered, from walking, to biking, to more specialized food, photography or street art tours. We did the following:

  • Parilla tour – a food tour where we tried some of the specialties of Argentina (described further in another post). Price: 69 USD, rating: 4/6
  • Buena Onda Free tour – a “free” (free as in you tip what you think it was worth) walking tour starting in the Recoleta cemetery and walking around in Recoleta.  Price: whatever you want, rating: 6/6
  • Buenos Aires Free tour – another “free” walking tour, one where we started in Retiro and ended up outside the Recoleta cemetery and the other one in Monserrat, walking around Microcentro. Both highly reccommended. Price: whatever you want, rating: 5/6
  • Foto Ruta – a street photography tour where we got a small introduction before we got an assignment and hit the streets with our cameras. After a couple of hours we returned for a glass of red wine and critique of our photos of the day. It was very much fun and a cool thing to do in a city like BA. Mathias was so happy with the tour that he booked a private half-day photo course, which unfortunately didn’t hit home as much as the Foto Ruta tour. Price: 29 USD, rating 6/6

Statue in Recoleta cemetery

Nuestra Señora del Pilar



Buenos Aires is the home of the tango, and although we aren’t the most avid dancers we had to check it out. The best place to see the locals dance is at a milonga. We got recommended La Catedral del Tango, just south of Palermo and went there a Saturday night. It was quite silent outside and we weren’t sure we had come to the right place, but as we came in we saw a packed place with a big dancing floor in the middle where middle aged men were dancing with mostly younger girls as if they hadn’t done anything else their whole life. It was almost mesmerizing to watch them glide effortlessly across the floor in sensual rhythms, a rhythm only interrupted by rare tourist couple hobbeling away their first tango steps.

Of course we had to try for ourselves, but not at the Milonga. So we went to La Viruta dance school, where they teach tango at all levels. A group lesson cost 40 ARG pesos and was quite fun. We learned the basic steps, which was just enough to follow the music and probably looking slightly worse than the tourists we saw at the milonga.

Tango in the street

Buenos Aires has been our favorite city on our entire journey of central and south America. The food has been amazing, the people nice and the city full of adventures. We felt that we barely touched the surface of what it has to offer and it is definitely a place we want to come back to some other time!

BA park

Street parilla

Graffiti in La Boca


BA sunset

More photos from Buenos Aires and the rest of our travels in Argentina can be found here.


Dining in Buenos Aires

One of our main goals for Buenos Aires was to taste the world famous, deliciously tender, Argentinian beef from happy, grass-fed cows on the pampas. We’d heard that Buenos Aires is a culinary capitol of South America, not only because of the beef, but also because of the strong Italian influences, and we were eager to explore all that it had to offer.

Tenderloin at La Cabrera

Argentine dining customs

The first thing we learned when going out for dinner in Argentina was that Argentinians eat dinner late! Restaurants don’t normally open until 8.30 pm and most Argentinians don’t go out until 9-10 pm on weekdays (forget about weekends, when a dinner can start around midnight). They also have a big lunch in the middle of the day, coupled with a siesta. To fill the void between lunch and dinner they have coffee, cake and sweets (alfajores) around 5-6 pm, which is quite opposite for two Norwegians that have strict rules back home about not having your dessert before you have finished your dinner.

Other than having a sweet tooth, Argentinians also love their cheese, preferably melted/grilled, and a snack or starter can very well consist of only melted cheese (and maybe a little bread or chorizo). And of course they love their meat, and who can blame them when they have such high quality, succulent beef.

Argentinian sweets

Argentine parillas

The best place to taste the Argentinian beef is at a parilla (a grill), where they grill the meat to perfection and usually serve it with chimichurri (a very typical sauce/dressing made with oil, vinegar and green spices), sometimes a salsa criolla (tomato/onion salsa), and an array of side dishes that you may order separately. To order a steak you need to know what cut you want and what degree of cooking.

The Argentinian cuts we tried were:

  • Bife de Lomo – Tenderloin (Nor: indrefilet), Tuva’s favourite and 60% of our meat consumption in the restaurants
  • Bife de Chorizo – Sirloin (Nor: ytrefilet), more fatty and tasty, Mathias’ favourite
  • Ojo de Bife – Rib-Eye (Nor: entrecôte), more marbled and more taste, but also more work
  • Asado de tira – Short ribs

As for degree of cooking the Argentinians like their meat well done, and with the quality of meat they have it stays quite juicy when cooked through, they call this “bien cocido“. However if you like your meat medium-raw you should order “jugoso” (juicy), which we did almost all the time and were very happy with. If you are a vampire or just love the taste of really red meat, you should order “blue” (raw), where the meat barely touches the grill.


Green and red

The parillas also have a lot of delicious starters, and some of our favorites were:

  • Cow’s heart – a waiter recommended us this and we were quite hesitant, but it was some of the best tasting meat we’ve ever tasted! (like very finely marbled, rich and tender beef)
  • Pork belly – what it says, but quite delicious
  • Chorizo – spicy sausage from the grill
  • Grilled provolone cheese – melted, mozarella-type cheese. Good in moderations.
  • Sweatbread – glands from the cow which is a specialty here. We had to try it and it was ok, but didn’t win our hearts.

Finally if you’re just looking for a quick snack you can visit one of the many street parillas and have a deliciously simple “choripan”, which is a baguette with a butterfly-cut chorizo inside and you lather it up with all the chimichurri and salsa criolla your heart desires.. yum!

Pork belly


Our recommendations:

      • La Cabrera (Palermo area) – we ate here 5 times as they have a genious happy-hour from 7pm-8pm where you get 40% off but have pay up and leave shortly after 8 :) Tuva loved their bife de lomo and proclaimed their french fries to be the best (and she knows her fries). They also served lots of scrumptious tiny side dishes and sauces which varied a bit each time. We also tried their dry-aged angus beef (bife de chorizo dried for 28 days). Not the best chimichurri, but a great deal, especially at happy-hour. Price for two: 250 – 350 ARG pesos (at happy hour)

Side dishes at La Cabrera

    • Don Julio (Palermo area) – a cozy parilla with the best oven-fresh bread basket we had. We went there 3 times and had their bife de lomo and bife de chorizo cooked to perfection. Their fries “Española” (almost like waffles) challenges La Cabrera for the best fries and they have a really good beet salad and chimichurri. Also, if you drink a whole bottle of wine you can write something funny on it and put it on their shelves for display forever. Price for two: 300 – 630 ARG

Parilla Don Julio

    • La Brigada (San Telmo area) – home of the famous 900g baby beef, so tender it is only served blue (raw) and cut with a spoon. This is also the place were we had a mind-blowing experience with cow’s heart and they had the best chimichurri (two types!) that we tried. A little minus for not so interesting bread basket. It’s not cheap but the waiters give you a warm good-bye (by your name) when you leave (not sure if this is common for everybody or if it was just because of our generous tip..). Price for two: +/- 500 ARG

Tender baby beef

  • El Desnivel (San Telmo area) – maybe not our first choice, but a cheaper option with lots of locals. We had the ribs and chicken BBQ which were okay. Price for two: +/- 180 ARG

Ribs at El Desnivel

Italian ice cream

One of the best things that have ever come from the Italians is their ice cream, and Buenos Aires is full of small to medium sized ice cream shops of various brands. Our favorites were Bianca and Freddo, which we frequented more than we’d care to admit. The dulce de leche flavor and its variations with chocolate and nuts is a must try, and best of all you can order take-away of 1/2 liter or more with free delivery! (dangerously simple from buenosairesdelivery.com)

Our recommendations:

  • Freddo (all over town) – considered by many as the best
  • Bianca (Palermo area) – we really enjoyed their dulce de leche with brownies and oreo cream
  • Persicco (all over town) – if you like it really sweet

Gourmet Italian ice cream

Pizzas and Empanadas

Another Italian influence is the pizza, and you’ll find plenty of pizza-restaurants as well as take-away all over BA. Unfortunately they haven’t adopted the classical Italian thin crust (at least on the places we tried) and if you don’t specifically order “thin”, you will get quite a thick crust. Also they love a ton of cheese.

Most pizza places also make empanadas, which are those delicious little bread pockets filled with chicken, beef or vegetables. Empanadas is a typical quick snack or starter. You can find varying types of empanadas all over Latin America, and the biggest difference with the Argentinian empanada is that it isn’t deep fried, like in many other countries, but oven-baked.

Our recommendation:

  • Pizzeria Guerrin – a decent italian pizza restaurant very popular among the locals. The best pizza we had in Argentina (although we didn’t eat much pizza)

Pizza at Guerrin


Food tours

A good way to get a taste of BA is to do a food tour, where you’ll try some of the most typical dishes in interesting restaurants outside the typical tourist track. We chose Parilla tour Buenos Aires where we got to try choripan, empanadas, a “secret” parilla (it’s usually closed to all people who don’t know about the place and whom the owner doesn’t recognize), and finally Italian ice cream. It was a good experience although not great, and is probably best to do in the beginning of your stay or if you only have a few days in BA. An added bonus is that you get a lot of good tips for other restaurants to visit and things to do.

Closed door restaurant

Closed door restaurants

Another special thing in BA is the “closed door” restaurants. They are basically restaurants in people’s apartments or in not very typical restaurant locations, and you have to order in advance to get a table, sometimes weeks in advance for the most popular ones. Many of them give you a good deal on a multicourse tasting menu, paired with delicious Argentinian wine.

After recommendation from Time Out Buenos Aires (a great magazine about what’s happening in BA) we chose Casa Coupage. We had a 8 course meal paired with 5 wines + aperitif. The waiter asked us which types of wine we like and customized the wine pairings to each of our preferences. We got two wines at the same time in order to taste the food with each one of them. All of it was tasty and very good, although we have to admit it didn’t blow our socks off. We were the first to come to the restaurant and almost the last to leave after our 4,5 hour feast. It was a great experience and a great deal at about 1250 ARG pesos incl tips for the two of us.

A complete meal

During our 3,5 weeks we ate our way through BA, eating more steak in those weeks than we have done in our previous 27 years. After this experience we can honestly say there is nothing better in this world than a jugoso bife de lomo paired with a good Malbec from Mendoza, some chimichurri and crispy french fries!